Fulvio Bressan – Taking the long-term view
Winemaking has developed significantly in the last few decades. Winemakers now routinely draw on a vast canon of research, learning and technology to help ensure that they produce consistent wines and...
View ArticleFeminine Faugères
I’m a big fan of Faugères – and if asked to describe the character of the wines from this small but over-achieving Languedoc appelation, I’d probably use words like “muscular”, “spicy” and “intense” –...
View ArticlePermaculture in Slovenia: Visiting Miha and Ivan Batic
There’s an almost reactionary view that winemakers who practice organic or biodynamic viticulture end up having to be more, rather than less interventionist in the vineyard. The theory goes that...
View ArticleAmphoras ahoy in Tuscany – Fattoria di Sammontana
Tuscany, and more specifically Chianti isn’t somewhere I associate with diversity. This isn’t the wine region to pick if you want the thrill of discovering unheard of grape varieties, finding weird and...
View ArticleLoad of old bull – does biodynamics need to explain itself?
“When I taste this wine, I imagine I’m walking up the dry river bed next to the Tatou vineyard, just after the rain. The smell of the wet stones is utterly distinctive.” This is the way that Colin...
View ArticleCalmel & Joseph – classy wines from Languedoc Roussillon
The Languedoc-Roussillon still has a bit of a name for being cheap – it’s France’s most important wine region in terms of quantity, with an extraordinary 299,000 hectares under vine (that’s three times...
View ArticleSweet and sour – A vertical of Chatzivaritis Goumenissa
When I was invited to taste a vertical of wines from Goumenissa, I wasn’t initially sure if that was the wine region, producer or grape variety. Goumenissa turns out to be a tiny but highly rated...
View ArticleBarking at the moon: Movia – Lunar 2008
Aleš Kristančič is a man whose reputation precedes him. Movia, the family's estate in Western Slovenia since 1820, has become one of the most well-known producers from the region, and also a...
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